A Love Letter and an Apology

It’s our first day in Greece. Erik & I throw on our shoes and hit the damp sidewalks of Athens. Hand in hand, we inhale the grit of our new neighborhood… the smell of the spring rain that threatens to begin again and maybe a hint of the nearby dumpsters, graffiti and murals decorating towering apartment buildings that barely contain the plants overflowing from their balconies, the cats snoozing on motor bikes. As we walk, the neighborhood streets open up into historical sites and… All of the sudden the Parthenon peaks high above in front of us. Perched on its hilltop as it’s done for over 2,000 years. After recovering from the mind melting history casually surrounding us, we notice that we’re nearly alone on this walk through Athens.

It’s Orthodox Easter and the entire city is shut down. The only noise around us are the birds and an occasional taxi slowly rolling past. If you’ve been to the vibrant city of Athens, you probably realize how rare a gift we stumbled into on that first day in Greece- wandering past the Arch of Hadrian and the Temple of Olympian Zeus all by ourselves. If you’ve been to Greece, you’re probably already chuckling to yourself because you know the whiplash we were about to get the following weekend when we were now walking shoulder to shoulder in the choked streets surrounding popular tourist sites like the Acropolis, Monastiraki Square and Plaka…

In May 2024, Erik and I spent six glorious weeks exploring the ever popular Greek destinations of Athens, Santorini, and Mykonos. We found ourselves in some of the most over touristed sites in the world, and yet, despite the over tourism we still managed to have some of the most real interactions, experiences and conversations that changed some of our perceptions of travel.

Athens made me a Philhellene

Athens seems to be a fairly polarizing destination. There is plenty to fall in love with and there is also plenty to be intimidated by or even detest between the theft, crowds, and tourist scams. For me, Athens felt like falling for the bad guy covered in tattoos who sweet talks you with a bouzouki and baklava. If you aren’t keeping your head on your shoulders, there’s a definite chance you’ll find yourself burned. But… if you play your cards right, you’ll have an incredible time.

The city is alive with a buzzing energy. To walk the streets of Athens is to feel the beating heart of Greece. People sitting casually at restaurants and cafes reading or smoking a cigarette and speaking loudly with big gesticulations, fighting on the sidewalks as people step around them dressed in suits on their way to work, musicians busking alone or in groups all over the city, homeless and affluent, young and old, addicts and health nuts, locals and tourists and immigrants. Street art covers the fronts, sides, and backs of buildings sometimes for the sake of art and others as a political stand. The smell of Greek street food wafts in savory clouds through the crowds, all in a rush to get where they’re going.

It is steeped so heavily in its own culture & identity and yet sanitized for the consumer as soon as you step onto the tourist trail. While gaping at The Big Tourist Attractions, we were only ever asked to buy buy buy and engage with Greece: The Product. But as soon as we stepped out of the attractions and slowed down to have conversations with locals, we were surprised to have some of the deepest, most real, cut-the-bullshit types of discussion about the impacts of tourism, how the city has changed over the years, the individual’s perception of the USA and Americans as well as comparisons to and inside glimpses of Greek culture. It was refreshing. It was enlightening. It made me fall even more in love with Greece. The people I met were blunt, sarcastic, funny, and had no interest in wasting time with surface level small talk.

Athens is a big ancient city with a lot of political context that most casual tourists skip past in favor of a fun fling with the Acropolis. And while we will gladly talk about that fling in a moment, it’s also worthwhile to step off the tourist trail and join a tour like this one that delves into Athens political past and present. Tours like this not only gives you an opportunity to gain context for the city you’re exploring but also offers you an opportunity to make connections and have deeper conversations.

History Info Dump incoming…

Athens has been inhabited by people for over 5,000 years and has recorded history spanning over 3,400 years. Its most well known era follows the Greco-Persian Wars when Athens, along with Sparta and a coalition of other Greek states defeated the Persians. By the 5th century BC, the Golden Age of Athens saw the rise of what we know as western civilization. Philosophers like Socrates, playwrights like Euripides, historians like Herodotus, and physicians like Hippocrates (y’know… as in the oath?) emerged during this era. Pericles, a patron of the arts and democracy, pushed forward monumental building projects such as the Acropolis of Athens, which is adorned by the Parthenon, the Propylaia, the Erechtheion, and The Temple of Athena Nike.

Fun Facts about the Acropolis!

The acropolis was dedicated to the Greek Goddess Athena, goddess of wisdom and warriors. A colossal bronze statue of Athena raising a spear in her right hand once stood at a towering 30ft tall between the Erechtheion and the Propylaea. Historians say the top of Athena’s helmet and the tip of her spear could be seen from the sea. The famous statue was second only to the colossal statue of Zeus at the Temple of Zeus the Olympian, both designed & built by Phidias. After the completion of the statue of Zeus, Phidias was imprisoned and put to death for political purposes (highly recommend all Ancient Greek political drama Wikipedia spirals, btw).
The Parthenon served as the city treasury. Many of the large marble blocks are engraved with ancient Greek receipts on building costs and who contributed what as well as how much each laborer and artist was paid for their services in the building process.
Pentelic Marble from the quarries in nearby Mount Pentelicus was used to construct much of the Acropolis as well as exported to Rome for the construction of many buildings and sculptures.
The Doric columns of the Parthenon are 6.2ft in diameter & 34ft tall. There are 46 outer columns and 23 inner columns in total. The triangular roof, or pediment, once held marble sculptures depicting the birth of Athena and Athena’s contest with Poseidon for control of Athens. Under the roof is a band of “metopes” which are carved marble plates depicting scenes of gigantomachy, centauromachy, amazonomachy, and the defeat of Troy, weddings, and various myths.

For 1,000 years the Acropolis survived fires and sackings but the persecution of pagans in the 5th century AD saw the Parthenon converted into a Byzantine church and then a Roman Catholic Church in the 7th century AD during Roman occupation. Under Rome, Athens was dubbed a “free city” due to their admiration of Athenian educational institutions. During this time, the Roman Emperor Hadrian funded the construction of Hadrian’s Library, the Arch of Hadrian, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Roman Agora, as well as temples, bridges, and aqueducts.

Through it all, the Acropolis has been a witness to Athenian History. The Parthenon evolved into mosque following Ottoman occupation beginning in 1458. The Venetians fought against the Ottoman Empire in 1687 and blew up a powder magazine located in the Parthenon temple, destroying the center of the building and many of the sculptures surrounding the site. The Acropolis was neglected to ruins in the ensuing years. The Ottoman Empire held Greece until The Greek War of Independence, 1821-1829. Greece officially declared independence in 1832 and crowned Prince Otto of Bavaria (oddly and scandalously) as the first king of Greece.

*Side note:*

If you’re into history, definitely take a deep dive into this war and the shaping of modern Greece; it's fascinating how the big players at the time (Britain, France, Russia, the Ottoman Empire) and the rise of romantic literature (Delacroix and Byron) reshaped Europe.

Many “explorers” fascinated with the Golden Era of Athens sought out ancient ruins for the collection of whatever they could carry with them over the years. Many important artifacts were looted by various nobleman from various empires. One of the most infamous, Lord Elgin of Britain, stole tons of ancient history from Athens and later sold it to the British Museum which now refuses to give them back to Greece under the guise of protecting the pieces… despite Athens constructing some of the most impressive museums I’ve ever visited. The Acropolis Museum opened in 2009 and is absolutely in my top 5 most favorite museums.

Suffice it to say, Greece has survived through so much and has held on to a strong sense of self. It’s impossible not to witness it with all of your senses as you explore this ancient country.

Seeing the Sites

The Acropolis is the main attraction when visiting Athens and is well worth taking your time to wander. Other sites I recommend prioritizing include:

The Acropolis Museum
The National Archaeological Museum
Benaki Museum
Ancient Agora & Temple of Hephaestus & Stoa of Attalid, Hadrian’s Library, Kerimeikos, Aristotle’s School, Roman Agora & forum, Temple of Olympian Zeus
Panathenaic Stadium (home to the first Olympics!)
Temple of Poseidon
Plaka & Anafiotika neighborhood wandering
Mount Lycabettus, Athens National Garden, Strefi Hill

Throughout our travels, Erik and I have learned a few things about visiting The Big Tourist Attractions:

Always eat breakfast & have your coffee before the attraction
Pack snacks and water. You’ll be touring for hours and will get hangry. Listen to your body and take breaks.
Stay aware. Big Tourist Attractions, especially in big cities like Athens, Rome, Paris, London, NYC, etc. are magnets for theft and scams. Take proper precautions like having an s-clip for the zippers on your bag and staying aware of your surroundings. Do not engage with people trying to sell or “give” you things like bracelets, flowers, whatever. Just keep walking. It’s always a good idea to brush up on local scams being run. All that being said, do not let fear rule you. Just stay smart and you’ll be fine.
Don’t pack in too much for one day. If you can, spread The Big Tourist Attractions over the course of days so you don’t get so overwhelmed and exhausted that you aren’t even having fun anymore.
Book tickets beforehand directly from the website & Arrive early. Do not book tickets from a 3rd party site like viator, booking . com, etc. For the acropolis and more, buy your tickets & prepare for your visit here.
If you enjoy audio guides, download free ones beforehand on your phone. We will occasionally listen to audio guides but more often than not, we get bored with the lecture and instead listen to a really good album while we tour. For the Acropolis, we listened to Chance the Rapper’s “Coloring Book”.
Prepare for the weather & bring a patient, flexible, attitude. When we visited the Acropolis, it was dumping rain and when it wasn’t raining we were getting run over by gigantic tour groups. But we were still there- standing on couple millennia worth of history, overlooking all of Athens. We shook off the unexpectedly “bad” parts and danced in the rain in front of the Parthenon while other tourists ran for the exits. Embrace it all.

Food Break!

Remember that bad boy metaphor I used at the beginning to describe Athens? He’s a little edgy, rebellious and maybe a little dangerous at times. He likes deep conversations, learning, and art. Woos you with flowers. Oh, and he can cook. You probably already know about Greek cuisine but I’m here to tell you it’s even better than you think it is. Here’s a list of my favorites that is by no means an exhaustive guide but maybe a lil something to get you started:

Spanakopita
Lamb anything
Any fresh fruit, vegetable, salad.
Souvlaki / Gyro
Baklava (especially if it comes with a side of Mastika ice cream)
Moussaka
Tzatziki / olive oil /wine (obviously)
Bougatsa
Saganaki
Dolma
Peynirli

As always, trust local recommendations and follow your nose. Try your absolute best not to eat close to The Big Tourist Attractions- the food there will always be more expensive for less quality. We did a food tour when we first arrived which was amazing. We love getting to meet fellow travelers and learn about the best places to eat, what to order, and ask questions.

Island Time

Island Hopping is basically Greek tradition. There are roughly 2,000 Greek islands with only about 200 being inhabited. Each island has its own pace, its own energy. Some are massively popular and therefore more like “Greece: The Product” while others are still relatively unknown to the tourist trail. There is an abundance of online information to help visitors narrow down which island to explore and how to get there. Erik & I had originally planned one itinerary but ended up switching last minute due to scuba diving scheduling and we wanted to meet up with friends who were on their honeymoon. I ended up solo-ing it to Mykonos to link up with buddies & dip my toe into honeymoon photography, then Erik and I dove in Santorini a few weeks later. The juxtaposition between my experience in Mykonos at the beginning of May versus our experience in Santorini at the end of May is kind crazy. We visited the two islands a few weeks apart and yet the crowds and the vibes were sooo different.

Mykonos:

I took the SeaJet ferry to Mykonos from Athens which was… an experience. I bought my ticket online beforehand and waited with a throng of other passengers to board. As soon as boarding began, each passenger decided they wanted to get on first to secure The Best Seat which of course results in everyone rushing in at the same time. Once onboard, the prime people watching unfolds as folks argue over seating. The ferries are very comfortable with tons of seat options at different price levels, plus there is a cafe that has food and drinks. I ordered a Freddo Cappuccino and a small can of Pringles to enjoy at my seat while I read my book. As soon as we arrived, the throng of tourists crowd the door so that they might be the first to step on land. It’s a little bananas. My best advice is to try not to let the craziness get under your skin.

Getting around Mykonos is super easy on the bus system. Each bus stop will probably have a different destination so be sure to pay attention to the signs posted on the stops for timing and routes. When in doubt- ask the extremely kind bus stop kiosk attendants. I walked from the ferry port to the Frabrika bus station and took the bus to Platis Gialos. Tickets for the bus were just 2 euro each way. I don’t recommend packing heavy for the islands. I had everything in a backpack and was so thankful for it between all the walking, steps, hills, cobblestone, and limited space on the buses.

I stayed at the Pelican Bay Hotel which had incredible staff, a yummy restaurant, a comfy bed and a balcony that I could’ve chilled on forever. I fully prepared myself for the social media VS reality disappointment in Mykonos but it never came. Mykonos fully lived up to the hype for me. It wasn’t very busy while I was there and it was just so damn beautiful. Mykonos is a wanderers dream. I loved aimlessly exploring Mykonos Town; seeing the panorama windmills, little Venice, the whitewashed buildings contrasted with the bold bougainvilleas, all the food and of course the shopping (tip: research Greek hair & skin care products and be prepared to bring home a few items!). Do yourself a favor and don’t plan much. Just relax… let the day take you wherever it goes. Platis Gialos is probably much busier in the warmer months but despite it being too cold for a leisurely beach day at one of its many beach clubs, I enjoyed the slow pace, sunshine and crystal clear water.

I got to experience traveling alone as well as with my friends. I was granted the gift of photographing them on their honeymoon in a place that is stunningly romantic. Mykonos during shoulder season will forever hold a place near and dear to me.

Santorini:

We took an easy hour long flight from Athens to Santorini. From the airport we caught the bus to Fira and then another bus from to Oia. I’m sure there are easier, more direct ways to get around the island but the buses are inexpensive and we enjoy the adventure. We stayed at Vogue Suites in Oia which were exquisite. The view from our patio looked out onto the caldera and also gave us a pretty great perch for people watching.

Santorini offers a plethora of activities; wine & food tours, atv rides, sailing, hiking, horseback riding, photo shoots, scuba diving, fishing, spa experiences, and more. And all of it, of course, comes with a tourist price tag. Erik & I spent the most on food in Santorini than anywhere else in Greece, but at least it was delicious. We were able to find a couple very chill, off-the-tourist-path souvlaki spots that were affordable and staffed by extremely friendly people. At one such spot, Erik & I were eating souvlaki after a day of diving, seated at a small table on the side of a fairly busy road when one of the restaurant workers comes over, fills three shot glasses with clear liquid he got out of unmarked jar from a coke fridge sitting outside, hands us each a shot and says “yamas!”. Of course Erik and I smile and kick back the shot after a “yamas!” of our own. Later, he told us it was mastiha, which is a Greek liquor from the Mastiha Tree and omg it’s so yummy.

When we weren’t wandering the pedestrian only paths through Oia or taking unknown liquor from strangers, we were diving with the wonderful team at Atlantis Oia Diving. When diving Santorini, you can expect really good visibility, chilly water temps, fairly easy conditions, very little wildlife, some cool rock structures and maybe some small wrecks. The coolest part about diving in Santorini is the fact that you’re diving in the caldera of a volcano!

Our last full day in Santorini was probably my favorite; we took the bus bright and early from Oia to Fira. Our day packs filled with snacks, water, and sun protection we set out to hike the 6.5 miles along the caldera’s ridge line from Fira back to Oia. This hike is packed with non stop views and allowed an escape from the absolute tourist mayhem of Oia.

If Mykonos exceeded expectations, Santorini fell somewhat short if only due to the insane amount of people and seeing the impact it’s had on locals. On our last night, we sat down at a small family owned restaurant for dinner and had a conversation with the owner about the impact mass tourism has had on his family & community. He told us how international corporations are buying up properties for hotels and airbnbs, pushing out families that have lived there for generations and sometimes even intimidating them to sell their own properties. Cost of living has sky rocketed making it difficult for folks to keep living on the island, not to mention the every day annoyance of having tourists treat your home like an amusement park. I’m gonna step up on my soapbox for a moment, you’ve been warned.

While in Santorini, we saw so much entitlement. People stepping on the roof of someone’s house or place of worship, climbing over fences for a photo op, being rude to industry staff, vlogging literally everything even if it meant intruding on someone’s personal space or their own personal moments. It was a lot of very selfish influencer-wannabe behavior and it made Santorini, an objectively breathtaking place, pretty unenjoyable. Cruise ships bring in hundreds and sometimes thousands of people and others arrive via flights & ferries. The towns on Santorini just aren’t made for that and the behavior is so antithetical to Greek ways of life. There has been talk of capping the amount of tourist traffic on the island per day and I sincerely hope it happens. If you plan to visit, and Santorini is more than worth visiting, please please please pleeeaaaassseeee be respectful.

Eis To Epanidein Τα λέμε Until I see you again…

I firmly believe that everyone should be able to feel what it’s like to stand where ancients have stood. Everyone should be able to see beautiful things. Everyone should be enriched with new foods exploding with spices and textures. Everyone should be able to hear music employing new instruments echoing lovely sounds into your soul. Everyone should be able to expand their own perspectives by exploring all of the similarities & differences the world has to offer.

I also firmly believe in preserving the culture, the privacy, and the dignity of those who call tourist destinations home. I loved Greece and I cherish the lessons Greek people taught me about travel and what it means to be an ethical, respectful, tourist. I’m definitely not perfect and I’ve made tons of mistakes but I hope to consistently practice those lessons no matter where in the world I find myself. And hopefully, I’ll get the absolute pleasure of finding myself back on Greek soil some day soon.

Greetings from Greece!